Carbon Art boards are guaranteed to be constructed as per their design specifications - but even a Carbon Art board will benefit from fine tuning after some use, to ensure that it stays in peak condition. This section contains tips on how to keep your Slalom board performing at its best. If you have a question about the maintenance of other types of boards, please send us an email.
Slalom boards are a high performance piece of equipment and any inconsistencies need to be addressed to ensure optimal performance. The following process will help you to ensure that you get the best possible performance out of your Slalom board. For best results, contact your board manufacturer for a copy of the manufacturing specs.
REPEAT STEPS 1 - 4 UNTIL ANY INCONSISTENCIES ARE ELIMINATED
*All Carbon Art boards are guaranteed not to exhibit manufacturing inconsistencies.
ADDRESS MANUFACTURING INCONSISTENCIES
- CHECK ROCKER, VEE AND PLANING
- IDENTIFY IF THERE ARE ANY HOLLOWS OR BUMPS
- SAND HIGHS AND FILL LOW SPOTS
FAIR AND FILL IF NEEDED
FINE TUNE
- FINE FILL SCRATCHES AND SMOOTH
- APPLY GUIDE COAT
- FINE SAND AND PRIME
- WETSAND TO 400G
- RE PRIME OR PAINT
- WETSAND 800, 1200, 2000
- POLIS
Tools You'll Need
- Box section aluminium 100 X 50 X 600 (long block)
- Box section aluminium 100 X 50 X 300 (sanding block)
- Sand paper 600 X 150-200 in the following grades: 60,80, 120, 150, 180
- Small wet sanding block
- Wet sandpaper in the following grades: 240, 320, 400, 800, 1200, 2000
- Polyester putty
- 1.8m long straight edge (aluminium 100mm x 10mm bar is pretty good)
- 30cm rule
- Straight edge holding tool (you can make one out of a piece of ply see diagram 2)
Step-by-Step Instructions: Address Manufacturing Consistencies
1. CHECK ROCKER, VEE AND PLANING
The main area to concentrate on is between the tail and 1m up the board, as this is the area you spend most time using, and also where most of the problems occur.
The first step is to measure the board and see if there are any inconsistencies, bumps, hollows etc. The best way is to divide the bottom of the board into a grid (see diagram 3) to give you some consistent reference points to measure against.
Most boards are designed with a straight section of about 70-80cm to trim off. This needs to be straight along the lines (see diagram 3) and from here the rocker should increase in a fair curve as you move forward.
To check the transition, roll your straight edge from the straight onto the rocker (see diagram 1) - it should be a smooth transition from straight to curve, and back from curve to straight. The smoother the transition the smoother the ride, which equates to more control and a better top end.
Next check the vee (see diagram a) by placing your straight edge at 90 degrees to the centre line and measure total vee at the opposite rail. These panels should also be straight with the vee number decreasing towards the nose of the board.
2. IDENTIFY IF THERE ARE ANY HOLLOWS OR BUMPS
Mark any hollows and bumps/high spots with a pencil.
3. SAND HIGHS AND FILL LOW SPOTS
Using coarse sandpaper and your long block, sand the high spots if there is filler to sand, and if not scuff the whole area to be refaired. This enables the Polyester putty to get a good bond. Then apply masking tape around the rail extending past the bottom of the board - this will act as a curtain to hold the filler, and ensure that you have enough material to work with right out to the rail. Then spread a layer of putty over the entire area, trying not to get any in the fin box as this will just create extra work cleaning up.
4. FAIR AND FILL IF NEEDED
Using the long block and 60 or 80 grit sand paper (depending on the amount of filler used), start sanding either side of the centre line to get straight and fairing transition from straight to rocker. Once you are satisfied that this is straight, start sanding the vee panels on either side, taking care not to touch your new clean rocker line. Sand in a lengthwise pattern and hold the long block leading with the centre line (see diagram 4).
Repeat steps 01-04 until manufacturing inconsistencies have been eliminated.
Step-by-Step Instructions: Fine Tuning
5. FINE FILL SCRATCHES AND SMOOTH
Use long block and 180 grit to clean up the surface.
6. APPLY GUIDE COAT
Apply one light coat of primer.
7. FINE SAND AND PRIME
Using a 30 cm long sanding block, sand in a random pattern until all the primer is removed. If you can still see patches of primer they are low spots, and you will need to fill these areas and repeat.
Apply 2-3 coats of primer according to the manufacturer's specs.
8. WETSAND TO 400G
Wet sand entire area with 240, 320 and 400 grit paper
9. RE PRIME OR PAINT
According to the manufacturers specs.
10. WETSAND 800, 1200, 2000
Wet sand through the grades to get a smooth, easy-to-clean surface.
11. POLISH
The best way is to find someone with a small polishing machine and foam polishing pad. Take care not to work any one area for too long as the surface will heat causing the paint to distort.
Some people believe polished surfaces to be slower than wet sanded surfaces, whereas others believe the reverse. However it is clear that polished surfaces remain clean for longer, and a clean surface is a fast surface.